The Certosa di San Martino belvedere

The Charterhouse of San Martino stands on the Vomero ridge beside Castel Sant'Elmo, and its garden terraces face straight out over the city. From up here Naples finally makes sense: the grid of the ancient centre, the dome of the Gesù Nuovo, the port, the long curve of the bay, and Vesuvius sitting behind it all.

The terraces are stepped and planted, so unlike most panoramic viewpoints there is foreground to work with — pergolas, low walls, vine rows and a series of arched openings that frame the view in sections. Late afternoon puts the sun behind you and lights the city; after sunset the bay goes blue and the streets below turn into a carpet of lights. The monastery's Great Cloister, all white marble and clipped box, is the second setting and works at any hour because it is shaded.

This is a state museum: entry is ticketed, hours are fixed and they end well before sunset, so a shoot here has to be planned as an afternoon rather than an evening. Check both the museum hours and the day it closes weekly. The funicular from Montesanto or Chiaia gets you up in a few minutes and is far easier than driving to the Vomero.