Lungomare Caracciolo and Castel dell'Ovo at sunset

The Lungomare was closed to traffic in 2012 and became what Naples had been missing: two and a half kilometres of open seafront where you can actually stand still. Castel dell'Ovo sits at the eastern end on the islet of Megaride, joined to the shore by a causeway, with the small harbour of Borgo Marinari and its fishing boats tucked beside it.

The geography does the work. Look east and Vesuvius closes the bay behind the castle; look west and the sun drops behind the Posillipo headland, throwing the whole promenade into warm backlight. The best half hour is after the sun has gone, when the sky over the volcano turns pink while the castle lights come on — one frame, two light sources, no equipment needed.

The causeway and the harbour behind it are public and open, and the castle itself can be walked up for free during opening hours; check them, as they change and the terrace closes earlier than the streets. The promenade is busy every evening with runners, families and street sellers — that is the character of the place rather than a problem, but it means wide empty compositions need the first hour of morning instead.