Vernazza from the Doria castle

Vernazza is the one village of the five with a real harbour, and the Doria castle sits on the rock above it. The climb is a few minutes of steps from the main square; at the top there is a round tower, a walkway and a parapet, with the village directly below — the little piazza on the water, the boats, and Santa Margherita d'Antiochia standing right on the rocks with waves at its foot.

The view is almost vertical, which is unusual and useful: instead of a distant panorama you get a detailed plan of the village, with people, boats and coloured facades all legible. It faces south-west over the harbour, so late afternoon puts warm light on the whole bowl, and the last half hour before the sun drops is the best of it. Morning is flat here but clear and quiet.

The castle is ticketed, cheap, with fixed opening hours that end before sunset in winter — check them, because the timing is the whole point. Steps are stone, uneven and unrailed in places. The village below is compact and entirely pedestrian; the trail towards Corniglia, which starts at the far side, gives the classic wider view of Vernazza from above, but it needs a Cinque Terre card and is often closed after heavy rain.