Manarola from Punta Bonfiglio at blue hour

Punta Bonfiglio is the small headland on the western side of Manarola's inlet, reached by a path from the top of the village past the cemetery. From it the whole village presents itself at once: the boat ramp at the water, the tower of houses in ochre, pink and rust climbing the rock, and the terraced vineyards above.

This is the single most photographed view in Liguria, and blue hour is when it earns it. The village lights come on while there is still colour in the sky, the sea in the inlet goes dark and the whole stack reads as a lit object against it. Sunset itself is harder — the sun goes down behind the headland and the village falls into shade before the sky is finished — so the useful window opens after the sun has gone, not before.

The path out is short but uneven, with steps and a low wall at the end; there is a bar and a small terrace with benches. It gets busy for sunset with tripods along the wall, so arrive early enough to choose a position. Walking back into the village afterwards, the ramp itself is the second location: at night the water is still and the houses reflect in it.