Porto Cervo — the marina and the Piazzetta

Porto Cervo was designed in the 1960s to look older than it is, and it photographs accordingly: curved white walls, shaded arcades, stairs and small squares that give shape without needing a landscape. The Piazzetta and the covered walkways behind it hold soft shade all day, which makes this the fallback when the beaches are burning at midday.

The marina gives the other register: masts, dark water, teak and a long quay for a clean, uncluttered background. Early morning is best there — crews are working, the light is low along the boats, and nobody minds a small session on the public side of the quay.

Evening is when the village fills. If you want the arcades empty, shoot before nine; if you want them alive, shoot after seven and use the lit shopfronts.