Sasso Caveoso and Santa Maria de Idris

The Caveoso is where Matera looks least restored: dwellings cut straight into the tufa, roofs that are somebody else's street, and stairs that turn back on themselves every twenty metres. The rock church of Santa Maria de Idris stands on a spur in the middle of it, and the path around its base gives the classic upward frame with the church against the sky.

Work downhill. From Piazza Pascoli the lanes drop past San Pietro Caveoso towards the ravine, and every level gives a different mix of doorways, arches and roofs; going back up the same way is a much longer job than it looks. Early morning has the lanes to yourself and the low sun reaching into them; by afternoon the tour groups arrive and the light is overhead.

Inside the rock churches, most are ticketed and several do not allow photography at all — ask at the door before planning anything indoors.