Lecce, Italy

Photo spot in Lecce

The facade of Santa Croce

The most extravagantly carved church front in southern Italy — grotesques, animals and columns cut into soft golden stone.

About The facade of Santa Croce

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Santa Croce took roughly a century and a half to finish, and the result is the definitive statement of what people mean by barocco leccese. The lower half is relatively restrained; above the cornice it becomes a riot of carved figures, animals, caryatids and a rose window surrounded by so much stonework that the wall almost disappears.

As a background it is close to overwhelming, which is the thing to manage. Keep subjects well forward of the wall and shoot with a longer lens so the carving compresses and softens behind them; or place them small at the foot of the facade so the scale of it becomes the subject. The stone is warm gold and it faces roughly west, so it takes strong direct light in the late afternoon and glows.

The street in front, Via Umberto I, is narrow, which means you cannot step back far enough for the whole facade without a wide lens and a lot of distortion — the detail shots are the better answer here. Everything is outdoors, free and permanently accessible; the church interior has its own hours and a small admission. Late afternoon is also when the street is busiest, so early morning shade is the alternative if you want it empty.

Best time to shoot

Late afternoon, when direct light rakes the carving; early morning for an empty street

Tips

The street is too narrow for the whole facade without heavy distortion — work details and longer lenses instead.

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